In Dialog with Karen Rotenberg – Artwork Jewellery Discussion board

Purposes for the 2022 Younger Artist Award are being accepted by way of January 9, 2022. This biennial competitors for jewellery artists affords a prize of US$7,500 for the winner and US$1,000 for every of the 4 finalists, in addition to an exhibition at Schmuck in March 2022. The three distinguished jurors are collector and gallerist Karen Rotenberg, curator Chequita Nahar, and 2020 Younger Artist Award winner MJ Tyson. We encourage bold up to date jewellery artists age 35 and beneath to use for this worldwide prize. Tips could be discovered right here. You may apply right here.

Saskia Deterling, Boat on Shore
Saskia Deterling, Boat on Shore, brooch, photograph courtesy of Karen Rotenberg

Melis Agabigum: Thanks for taking time to talk with me. I’m fascinated by the factors you utilize in selecting works so as to add to your assortment. AJF interviewed you in 2016.[1] You said that “innovation, compelling visible assertion, and building” inform your choices. Might you describe how every of those turned a part of your standards? Have you ever seen your definitions of innovation or compelling visible statements change through the years?

Karen Rotenberg: Innovation, building, and a compelling visible assertion have at all times knowledgeable my choices. With the emergence of 21st-century artwork jewellery, these phrases counsel wider potentialities. Innovation has meant a larger concern for the atmosphere. A shift from treasured gems and metals to alternate supplies. Development meant new instruments and methods. A larger concern for a way the work attaches and pertains to the physique.

Presently, I contemplate social, political, and gender points a extra vital side of visible statements. I personal a brooch by Saskia Detering, The Boat on the Shore. It speaks about migration and dislocation. It’s fabricated from rope, burnished brass, and a tiny reduce stone. The empty boat and the supplies ship a robust message of concern, and maybe hope. This usually begins a dialog.

Billie Jean Theide, Inside Looking Out
Billie Jean Theide, Inside Wanting Out, plinth and brooch, photograph courtesy of Karen Rotenberg

You’ve been amassing for a while. You’re a patron of a number of rising and established artists. Have you ever seen any tendencies within the works that you simply’re drawn to?

Karen Rotenberg: In the previous couple of years, many tendencies in up to date artwork jewellery have intensified.

  • Collaboration. The web opened the world to the up to date artwork jeweler. COVID intensified the necessity to share and collaborate. An instance could be AMEND. This broad exhibition honored the 100th anniversary of girls’s proper to vote within the US. Individuals produced work particularly for it. Billie Jean Theide made Inside Wanting Out. This brooch and plinth convey early protests for the correct to vote.
  • Environmental concerns. The pressing requires accountable observe in a world of diminished assets has led to the larger use of other supplies. There’s a necessity to provide precedence to social and political points. Galleries that includes artwork jewellery have offered spectacular exhibitions that reply to problems with race, gender, local weather change, and COVID.

And, on a lighter notice…

  • Males reclaiming their place as collectors. Within the artwork world, males have once more grow to be intrigued with the chances of carrying artwork. My husband, Michael, is my favourite instance of this development. This photograph reveals him carrying a brooch by Mariko Sumioka.
Michael Rotenberg wearing Box Brooch 2020, by Mariko Sumioka
Michael Rotenberg carrying Field Brooch 2020, by Mariko Sumioka, photograph courtesy of Karen Rotenberg

You say that “jewellery is supposed to have a relationship to the physique, and that this relationship is greatest served by carrying it…” I like your philosophy! My maternal grandmother gave me a gold, enameled, ladybug bracelet. It’s one of many first reminiscences I’ve about my fascination with, and relationship to, jewellery. Do you recall any particular reminiscences that led to your love of knickknack? Maybe you noticed a chunk of knickknack and felt a way of connection to it? Perhaps you seen another person carrying a jewel?

 Karen Rotenberg: Goldsmith Gerd Rothmann mentioned, “The carrying of knickknack is the fact of knickknack.” I, too, imagine that carrying the jewellery is crucial affirmation of the work. Presenting this artwork kind on informal put on or “vogue” attire offers the proper canvas. It additionally offers a wider viewers an instantaneous entry. I typically attempt to relate my selection of knickknack to the artwork occasion I’m attending. This has usually led to an attention-grabbing “dialog” between wall artwork and physique artwork. Nonetheless, when the world went into lockdown, I spotted that selecting an artwork piece to put on every day was not really satisfying. It was a constructive act. However my adornment couldn’t meet and greet the world past my residence.

Karen Rotenberg wearing Mysterious Garden brooch, by Mariko Kusimoto
Karen Rotenberg carrying Mysterious Backyard brooch, by Mariko Kusimoto, photograph courtesy of Karen Rotenberg

Jewellery is not like every other artwork kind. It’s so intimate. Has your relationship to jewellery modified in any means by way of your experiences of jurying, amassing, curating, promoting, and so forth?

Karen Rotenberg: Sure, amassing, curating, and jurying have modified my relationship to jewellery. They’ve led to a larger appreciation of idea, technical innovation, and the worldwide scope of this artwork kind. It has additionally prompted me to focus my very own amassing on younger and mid-career jewelers. These artists use alternate supplies and different progressive methods to inform the compelling tales of our time.

Karen Rotenberg wearing 30 Million Years After necklace, by Annette Dam
Karen Rotenberg carrying 30 Million Years After necklace, by Annette Dam, with wall artwork by Claus Oldenburg behind her, photograph courtesy of Karen Rotenberg

Your assortment features a broad number of jewellery. What are your ideas on “preciousness” in jewellery constituted of various or nontraditional supplies? How do you see this idea play out in items that don’t use treasured metals or stones?

 Karen Rotenberg: We now converse of latest artwork jewellery as a severe artwork kind. So ought to we not rethink what we deem “treasured”? A portray just isn’t thought of treasured due to the price of supplies. It’s not in regards to the paint and canvas. The precious comes from a cogent visible message. Artwork jewellery is dedicated to environmental conservation. It emphasizes alternate supplies, innovation, and compassion to reinforce its visible communication. Maybe it’s time to contemplate the conservation, collaboration, and innovation of latest artwork jewellery and its message to many as the brand new “treasured.”


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