The Salve of Jewellery within the Age of COVID-19 – Artwork Jewellery Discussion board

I’m already trying ahead to the twond Lisbon Up to date Jewelry Biennial! Exceptionally organized, manageable for guests, and with simply the right combination of occasions (17 in whole), it created an uncluttered conceptual house wherein to current recent work and concepts inside the modern jewellery subject. Commencing the week of September 13 and ending November 21, 2021, simply because the world was within the technique of being (or protesting being) vaccinated, this was not a straightforward affair to drag off.

Chilly Sweat banner, picture courtesy of Cristina Filipe

Certainly, in the course of the planning section, nobody knew what the standing of the virus and its many variants is likely to be by the point of the opening. Delivery was (and stays) in shambles; the power to journey was unsure; and it may have been perceived as insensitive to carry individuals collectively in such a bodily menacing time. Insightfully, nevertheless, the organizers, PIN (Portuguese Affiliation for Up to date Jewelry)—led by Cristina Filipe, Marta Costa Reis, Isa Duarte Ribeiro, and Luís Torres—in partnership with MUDE (Museu do Design e da Moda, Coleção Francisco Capelo), Museu de São Roque/SCML, Museu da Farmácia, Analysis Centre for Science and Expertise of the Arts – CITAR/ Universidade Católica Portuguesa, Brotéria, Sociedade Nacional de Belas-Artes, Ar.Co–Centro de Arte Comunicação Visible, Escola Artística António Arroio, Instituto Cultural Romeno de Lisboa, in addition to with personal galleries and artists who organized exhibitions as a part of the official program, understood the significance of safely coming collectively to replicate on the tragedy that befell the world, how we’re surviving it, and the necessity to re-experience our neighborhood by means of seeing and speaking about jewellery.

Opening on the church with the biennial’s banner, copyright MSR/SCML

The biennial was structured across the themes “The Physique,” “Concern,” and “Safety.” How fascinating to check notes with buddies from throughout the globe by means of discussing the work! It was an ideal salve for the isolation and troublesome emotions we have now been collectively experiencing. Selections akin to titling the biennial and its most important exhibition “Chilly Sweat,” (coined by Kadri Mälk) and inserting jewellery in dialog with spiritual objects on the Museu de São Roque (a cloister with a group Portuguese sacred artwork) and the Igreja de São Roque (the baroque Jesuit church that’s connected to it), in addition to with medicinal objects on the Museu da Farmácia, an area devoted to the historical past of prescribed drugs, helped to encourage these conversations. With artist talks, gallery and museum exhibits, an instructional symposium, grasp lessons, and exhibitions, the facility of latest jewellery to stimulate significant dialogue and assist us cope with the dystopian topics that dominate right now was impressively clear.

Launch of the ebook “Up to date Jewelry in Portugal: From the Avant-Garde of the Sixties to the Early twenty first Century,” by Cristina Filipe, at CAM, Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisbon, September 13, 2019, courtesy MUDE, picture copyright Luisa Ferreira

Some background: In 2017, Cristina Filipe, organizer and curator, gained the primary Susan Beech Mid-Profession Artist Grant, which in the end performed a task in bringing this occasion to fruition. In 2019, AJF traveled to Lisbon for a presentation of Filipe’s ebook based mostly on her Ph.D thesis, Up to date Jewelry In Portugal: From the Vanguards of the Sixties to the Early twenty first Century which had been sponsored by the prize. For that event, PIN organized a five-day journey to go to artists, collector houses, workshops, and a few museums, together with Filipe’s exhibition on the Calouste Gulbenkian Basis the place she put modern jewellery in dialog with items from their stellar assortment. The success of the go to created the motivation to make the biennial a actuality, and PIN set a date for the inaugural to happen in 2021. Because the world grew to become engulfed by the pandemic in 2020, the theme for the primary version grew to become apparent.

Set up on the Museu da Farmácia, with a model sporting modern “ink blot” brooches by Agnieszka Knap. “Dr. Knap” is within the foreground, performing her “ink blot” evaluation, picture courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford

Because it seems, with its small measurement and supportive neighborhood, spiritual background, arts establishments, and sophisticated relationship with the that means of knickknack, Lisbon was the right setting for any biennial to happen throughout COVID occasions. Not many locations have a pharmacy museum or church buildings that may let you place modern jewellery subsequent to therapeutic potions and non secular relics which might be a whole bunch of years previous!

Whereas there are far too many stand-out moments to say on this brief article, some embrace

  • A tribute to the current loss of life of Valeria Vallarta Siemelink at Museu de São Roque, with a necklace by Alcides Fortes and Siemelink from 2003 product of discovered wooden and damaged glass from the destruction of a home that was bombed in the course of the Iraq Warfare
Valeria Vallarta Siemelink, necklace from Alcides and marriage ceremony rings with Hes Siemlink, at Chilly Sweat, courtesy of PIN, picture: Eduardo Sousa Ribeiro
  • Caroline Broadhead’s Preservation and Shielding set up, additionally on the Museu de São Roque, that put pearls encased in glass in dialog with a portray of empty jewellery shows, indicating the poisonous nature of our our bodies interacting with our environments, and the resultant empty storefronts that dominate the panorama
(Within the case) Caroline Broadhead, Preservation and Shielding Necklaces, (behind the case, at middle) Daniel Blaufuks Immediately, Nothing II, photographic print, on the Museu de São Roque, picture courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford
  • Silvia Beildeck’s A Flea, proven on the Brazilian exhibition Ferida Aberta by Grupo Broca. On this work, a collection of creepy and ominous golden “bugs” had been positioned across the head of a lady in {a photograph} to represent the nervousness of disinformation, half-truths, and hallucinations which have plagued social media and our capacity to differentiate details from fiction
Caroline Broadhead taking in Silvia Beildeck, A Flea, proven on the Brazilian exhibition Ferida Aberta, by Grupo Braca, picture courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford
  • Manuela Sousa’s 2020 object, a field with a glove on the Igreja de São Roque with names written on it of those that have died in the course of the pandemic.
Manuela Sousa, 2020, Object, a field with a glove, on the Igreja de São Roque, picture courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford
  • The historic installations on the Museu da Farmácia, with mannequins sporting modern “ink blot” brooches by Agnieszka Knap
  • The colloquium presentation by João Neto about protecting objects within the pharmacy museum assortment
João Neto giving a presentation about protecting objects within the Museu da Farmácia assortment, picture courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford
  • The artist talks on the Jewellery Room, the place Ruudt Peters, Patrícia Domingues, and Tanel Veenre received private about their lives and practices
Ruudt Peters, Patrícia Domingues, and Tanel Veenre discussing their practices on the Jewelry Room, picture courtesy Barbara Paris Gifford
  • And the jewellery retrospective of Portuguese sculptor José Aurélio, whose stellar work was virtually unknown to most people earlier than this second

On reflection, the themes of “The Physique,” “Concern,” and “Safety” weren’t solely vital for the second but in addition revealed a broader method to consider the that means of knickknack past a western secular mindset. Cultures that embrace jewellery as safety, as amulets, and as central to survival, each spiritually and bodily, consider it exterior the mnemonics of sophistication, wealth, and girls. Within the US, the relentless play with these themes retains the dialog unique, to solely those that “get” jewellery in the identical method we do.

As we glance to diversify our subject, it’s worthwhile to not solely consider the varieties of people that make modern jewellery, but in addition to think about the that means of the work and the way it displays a range of beliefs about jewellery across the globe. In opposition to the Lisbon backdrop, the “Chilly Sweat” biennial achieved simply that. It introduced a jewellery subject with a broadened dialog that was related to a various group of makers and wearers.


I wish to give a particular thanks to Marta Costa Reis for making use of for a grant from FLAD – Luso American Improvement Basis in order that I may attend this necessary occasion.


Written by colin

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